
If there is a single feature
of south Thailand's landscape which commands one attention right from the start is the
dramatic limestone crags which rise from the waters edge and valley floors to sheer
vertical heights in excess of 900 meters. These butte-like crags, called
"karsts", were formed 260 million years ago when a shallow sea running the
entire length of south Asia, slowly built up deep deposits of shells and corals which were
later buried under sediments washing in from land. Compressed deep in the earth, these
calcium carbonate remains formed limestone which was thrust up above the surface when the
India sub continent, collided with mainland Asia about 30 million years ago.
The collision of these two titanic plates rotated the whole of south
Thailand and the Malay Peninsula clockwise and uplifted the 5,000-km ancient coral reef
line. From Gualin, China to Sarawak, Borneo the limestone was thrust up above the surface
like discs slipping out of places along a terribly maligned human spine. Surat Thani,
Phangnga, Krabi and Trang provinces are the areas in south Thailand where karst intrusions
are most pronounced.
luctuating
sea levels during the ice ages allowed for extensive wave erosion of this soft sedimentary
rock. For many millenniums, monsoon rains have also helped dissolve the karsts.
Decomposing leaves from karst vegetation create slightly acid water which readily
dissolvesthe calcium carbonate of the limestone as the water percolates down through the
tiniest cracks and crevices in the rock. Rivers too have cut courses through the karsts
resulting in a labyrinth of cave chambers and passageways.
Sometimes the roof of a huge cave chamber collapses and the ensuing sunlight allows
colonizing plants to flourish in a hidden "garden of Eden: - a "hong".
These hongs (Thai for "rooms") are one of the most fascinating features of karst
topography. If the former cave floor was at, or below sea level then the hong may become a
lagoon at high tide. This is the case at the Pranang "princess pool: or the lovely
lagoon of koh Hong where the tide races in and out through the old cave entrance. If the
old cave site is well above sea level, however, then a climax forest may ultimately grow
here as in the case of Ao luk's Than Bok Koranee of Wat Tan Sua near Krabi town.
Karst
support an intriguing flora and fauna, uniquely adapted to demanding habitat conditions.
Vegetation on karsts has evolved the ability to withstand long period of crevices where
moisture and some semblance of nutrients from decomposing leaves are available. As these
plants grow and their roots and trunks swell they often sheer off part of the rock face.
Plants thus carve away at the
rock in much the same way that water expanding into ice splits rock in colder
climates.These vegetation in turn supports a variety of wild animal life in this very
area. With luck one might be able to behold any of these wild life during a normal tour
around at Phang Nha Bay National Park.
At both low tide and high
tide, it is not possible to enter the hongs. Illustration of how tides affect sea cave
canoe trips into the 'hongs', tunnels, and lagoons.
It is only when the tide is neither high nor low can we have access to this hidden world
of limestone Emerging from the cave into an inner lagoon; this unspoiled tranquil
"room" is open to the sky and as we gently paddle around observing the
breath-taking scenery walls of rock covered with vegetation, bird singing and insects
whining. Lawa island is located further down from Panak island. Tropical sandy beach will
allow you to enjoy swimming, sunbathing, offshore canoeing or relaxing comfortably under
the palm and coconut tree.
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